Day 69, July 28^th, West Glacier, MT to Whitefish, MT.  This was the last riding day before the break to visit Glacier National Park.  I added a few miles to get to the Glacier Cycle Shop in Whitefish because the shop would store my bicycle while Cindy and Dave and Diane Stoakley explore Glacier.  I took my time and had breakfast at the San Sue Ed Campground.  My stay in what I would describe as a backyard shed was actually quite nice.  It is very dark in this area and I had to visit the bathroom during the night, which was somewhat scary.  I saw an article that Glacier Park area is being designated as a “Night Sky” area being so far from metropolitan areas and the ambient light.  I rode on U.S. Route 2 rather than take the Adventure Cycling Route.  The route was fine until the Flathead River Gorge which is very narrow and there was a lot of traffic.  Otherwise the ride was pretty flat but through some beautiful mountain scenery.  I arrive in Whitefish, MT about 11am, found the bike shop and had to wait to check in at the motel.  I visited the old Great Northern Train Station.  Whitefish is much like Aspen or Vail.  I had a scary fall while looking for some hotel rooms.  Hit my elbow quite hard but some ice and Aleve helped.  After getting settled to wait for Cindy, I explored Whitefish and found a great brewery.  The beer also helped my elbow.  I get to sleep in tomorrow.  Mileage for the day was 25.00.

Flathead River

Day 68, July 27^th, East Glacier, MT to West Glacier, MT.   Today, I got my first experience at riding over a mountain pass.  The route was through Marias Pass at about 5200 feet and paralleled the railroad.  I was hoping for some gentle climbs and lots of trains.  The crest of the pass was only 11 miles from East Glacier.  The hostel didn’t open until 7am and to check out I had to change the sheets on my bunk and turn in my towel and lock.  I slept a little late and went next door to the restaurant for breakfast.  The specialty is “stuffed” French Toast.  I had the plain variety.  The 2 pieces were about 3 inches thick because they are normally filled with apples, huckleberries, or some other fruit concoction.  I could only eat one and a little.  I was joined by Jeff Hassel, a Methodist minister (just can’t seem to shake the Methodists) who is on somewhat of a sabbatical.  He actually quit the ministry and is taking a different direction.  While he is between jobs, he is riding his motorcycle to around North America including Canada and Alaska and staying in hostels.  We had a great conversation about the “mainline” churches and mission work.  Jeff is going to explore starting a not-for-profit tourist hotel in Central America, that provides jobs and gives profits to the community.  I got on the road about 8 and headed up the mountain.  The climb was surprisingly easy and I got to Marias Pass about 9:30.  I was interviewed by a Park Ranger about my visit to Glacier Park as well as a long conversation about making “service to Nation” mandatory for all Americans.  There were NO trains!  I saw 5 different work crews doing some heavy maintenance on the BNSF line over the pass.  I was so looking forward to seeing 4 big diesel engines making the ground shake as they pull the load up the mountain.  On the way down to West Glacier, I realized that I got very lucky.  It was 48 miles downhill, which makes it all uphill for the eastbound cyclists.   All the climbing I have done from Fargo, ND was not in vain.  I arrived at West Glacier about 2:30 and thought about driving on to Whitefish, MT, where I will meet Cindy on Sunday, but I didn’t have the legs today.  Even though it was downhill today, there was a stiff breeze up the valley and I had to peddle to keep moving.  I am in a very nice campground just west of West Glacier in what I would describe as a backyard shed set up for sleeping.  There are bears in this area and being in a tent can be unnerving.  I had another conversation, this time with the woman who runs the campground.  She and her late husband moved to West Glacier in 1960 when there was very little in this area other than the railroad lodges in the Park.  She was a wealth of knowledge about the area as well as giving her opinion on life.  I am hearing many train whistles, so the trains are running again.  DRAT.  I may have to spend a day up on Marias Pass watching trains on my break!  So it was a day of beautiful scenery, no trains, and quite a diverse set of conversations.  Mileage for the day was 60.71. 

View headed up the pass

Me at the top of the pass

Lunch stop

Day 67, July 26^th, Shelby, MT to East Glacier, MT.  I SAW THE MOUNTAINS TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!!  I got up early again in case the wind was a problem.  I left Shelby about 6:15 and headed west.  The wind was very light and at times from the Northeast.  I made steady time to Cut Bank.  I was going to go to a McDonald’s for breakfast in honor of Dave Stoakley, but decided at the last minute to go to the Sky Café.  I should have gone to McDonald’s.  The breakfast took forever and I ordered my favorite “corned beef hash” with my eggs.  I paid for that mistake later.  Leaving Cut Bank, the route took a big dip across Cut Bank Creek and I had a nasty climb back up to the plateau.  After that, the route was flat and the wind was at my back for about 15 miles.  I saw the eastbound Amtrak train below me in a picturesque setting but I couldn’t get stopped fast enough.  I averaged 12-13 mph across the flat.  After Cut Bank, I entered the Blackfeet Indian Reservation and there were no towns or stops for 30 miles to Browning.  I made great time and got to Browning about noon with 60 miles done.  The wind sure does make a difference.  I did pay for my breakfast with a cramp in my side for most of this stretch (sorry I ever doubted Dave that McD’s was the best place to eat).  As I was cresting the last hill into the Browning area, I saw the outline of “the mountains” on the horizon.  I took a long break in Browning and visited the Museum of the Plains Indians in Browning.  The museum is small but has some good information about the Native American peoples.  I took off for East Glacier about 2pm and the mountains came into sharp focus and what a ride!  It was only 12 miles but the map indicated some elevation gain from 4400 ft. to 5000 ft. on the route.  It was, I hope, a good test of the climbs to come.   Tomorrow, I climb Marias Pass (5500 ft.) and hopefully get to West Glacier.  I have decided that there have been 3 constants on this trip.  Every day, I have seen a UPS, a FEDEX, and a Schwann’s truck.  Don’t you just love the USA.  I also tried something different for tonight’s lodging.  I took a bunk at a hostel in East Glacier.  I am the only person over 30 but thought I should try it once. East Glacier is very small with a main street with tourist stuff and this little area with several old motels and small restaurants and shops.  This part is very laid back and only open in the summer.   Mileage for the day was 70.86.

Day 66, July 25^th, Hingham, MT to Shelby, MT.  My goal today was to make up some of the distance I lost yesterday in the wind.  I was on the road at 5:45 before sunrise.  The wind was from the west but not strong yet.  I kept a steady pace but the wind made the ride hard work.  I had to take a lot of breaks but tried to make the ride into small sections (5, 7, 10 miles).  I took opportunities for pictures as a break.  I saw a lot of trains and another Ring-Necked Pheasant.  It must have been the westbound period for the single track BNSF in this area.  The terrain was just wide open and somewhat bleak.  My first long stop was at Chester, my destination yesterday and I found a nice café called Spud’s Place for breakfast.  I met a couple of eastbound riders who bragged about doing 100 miles yesterday.  I’m sure their distances were high today too.  After breakfast in Chester, it was a slog for the rest of the day.  My legs held up pretty well, but I am glad I have a break soon.  I made Shelby but didn’t have any legs for a push to Cut Bank.  There was a historical marker for Shelby.  Shelby was originally a railroad and cattle town, then became a center for the farming community, and finally an oil town.  I picked the local Ohaire Motel and explore the downtown.  I believe everything has moved out near Interstate 15.  Tomorrow I try to get to East Glacier, another 70 mile day.  Mileage for today was 70.97.    

Day 65, July 24^th, Havre, MT to Hingham, MT.  I was not moving fast today after a 90+ mile day yesterday.  The day was clear and surprisingly cool.  The forecast was a high of 85 degrees and wind from the west.  I got on the road about 7:30 and headed west.  I climbed back up onto the plateau and into Hill County area.  There is a little different look to the terrain as I approach the mountains.  I passed the most notable historic site in Havre, the cliff the native peoples used to kill buffalo by stampeding them off.  It is considered a sacred place by the tribes.  .  The route continues to follow the railroad and I was several BNSF trains hauling grain, stacked containers, and some mixed loads.  I made good time but not like yesterday.  At about 25 miles the route started to climb and the wind picked up.  By the 30 mile mark at Gildford, MT, the wind was fierce.  I had a hard time keeping the bike straight in the cross wind as well as trying to keep moving forward.  The last 6 miles seemed to take forever.  At Hingham, I stopped at the Hi-Way Bar and Café, had some soup (very good beef vegetable) and a grilled cheese.  When I stepped outside to get back on the road the wind hit me and I decided to call it a day.  The forecast is for wind at 24-29 mph all afternoon, but tomorrow looks better.   My plan is to get on the road at first light and get miles before the wind picks up.  Hingham has a nice city park with bathrooms and water.  The Hi-Way Café also runs a RV park that is currently filled with teams harvesting wheat and I can get a shower.  I have all the comforts of home.  I had a nice conversation with a woman and her children at the park.  Robin was born here, but moved to Helena with her husband.  When the housing construction dropped off, they came home to Hingham.  Sounds like he is the best carpenter in town and stays very busy and more profitable than in Helena.  As I have wished to be on the road making positive distance toward Glacier Park, the wind continues to howl and I think I made a good choice.  Mileage for the day was 35.65. 

Day 64, July 23^rd, Malta, MT to Havre, MT.  I had a great morning ride.  I was out early as usual (about 6:45) and the wind was out of the Southeast and blowing hard.  The route was pretty flat and I just cruised at about 18 mph for most of the morning.  I blew through the first 2 towns and got all the way to Harlem, MT before stopping.  I did about 45 miles in less than 3 hours.  I even stopped a couple of times to take pictures and fix my chain when I shifted into high.  I saw a typical ranch/farm area with more junk equipment that Blackie’s on Route 17.  I also was following the railroad and had opportunities for pictures including the site where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid robbed the Great Northern train.  I ate my second breakfast at Deb’s Café in Harlem and had an omelet that was way too big, but I ate the whole think.  I got to my scheduled stop in Chinook before noon, so I added an extra 20 miles to get to Havre.  The last 20 was pretty slow as the wind shifted from the west.  The forecast is for a west wind tomorrow but at least I cut my distance.  Havre, MT is in Hill County, named for James J. Hill the founder of the Great Northern Railroad.  Havre has a large BNSF yard and maintenance facility including a locomotive repair and servicing facility.  Engines are everywhere and lots of action.  Mileage for the day was 90.52.

Day 63, July 22^nd, Glasgow, MT to Malta, MT.  I was worried about today all night.  I expected hilly terrain and some west wind.  I made a note to self: do not quit early and go to a campground.  A hotel/motel is okay because there is a TV and one can secure gear and look around town.  I was trapped at the campground.  I did have a lot of time to read my Bible.  I must say to Ken Peterson and Michael Condrey, Romans is hard!  I was up and out by 6:45.  Got some coffee and ate 2 Pop Tarts and headed west.  The wind was still light and it was cool.  The route climbed out of Glasgow but then I was up on the plateau with a gentle roll.  I met a cyclist heading east, Larry, from Toano.  Larry rides with the Richmond club (RABA) often, so Dave may see him.  After the plateau the route dropped down to the Milk River and a flat stretch. I noticed on the plateau, the farmers have dug a network of irrigation canals.  This is a dry area. My first stop was Hinsdale at almost 30 miles, but only the gas station was open because it was Sunday.  I had a terrible blueberry muffin and a cup of coffee and hit the road.  I took the next 40 miles in 5 mile increments.  The next town Saco was also closed so I pressed on.  The routine was the same and it got hot but not as hot as past days.  The route followed the railroad for a couple of miles, then went up on the plateau, then came back down.  I did see several trains!  I had lunch from my food supply at Buffalo Rock, a sacred spot for the Cree Tribe.  I arrived in Malta about 2:30, found the planned motel and visited the Phillips County Museum.  It is amazing the collection of artifacts, historical items and junk that these town museums collect.  The mileage for the day was 73.78

Day 62, July 21^st, Wolf Point, MT to Glasgow, MT.  I had another early start and had the wind at my back today.  Breakfast at the Homestead Motel was not much but the coffee got me going.  The route was flat for the first 20 or so miles in the floodplain of the Missouri River.  It was overcast with some black clouds and I anticipated some rain, but It was moving north and soon the sun broke through.  I made great time and did the 39 miles to Nashua in about 3 ½ hours.  There was a small café, Bergie’s, right on Route 2, so I decided to get a “second” breakfast.  Back on the road, I was on U.S. Route 2 all the way to Glasgow, which was my end point for today at about 55 miles.  I arrived about noon and did several map checks to try to pick a town farther along.  None of the options made sense.  As I was doing my check I stumbled upon the Glasgow Pioneer Museum, which turned out to be a better version of the Wolf Point Historical Society Museum from yesterday.  I suspect Glasgow has had better relations with the Native tribes because the Indian displays were actually donated to the museum by members of the tribes.  When I left the museum it had gotten hot and that solved my go or stay dilemma.  I located the Trails West Campground and set up camp.  A great benefit is there is a swimming pool which will feel good. Mileage for the day was 58.56. 

Day 61, July 20^th, Circle, MT to Wolf Point, MT.  I was up early but unsure what to do today.  I only had 50+ miles and didn’t want to rush.  I also was feeling the 80 mile day yesterday.  I decided to get on the road but take it slow.  I found some coffee, ate a little and headed toward Wolf Point.  It was a good thing I started early.  The route to Wolf Point was quite hilly and a lot of them.  It was a rolling ride and the wind was not in my favor.  It was gusting fairly hard at about 2 o’clock from the Northeast.  It was a slow go and my legs really didn’t want hills.  I did take it slow and stopped often.  There is no much between Circle and Wolf Point except wheat fields.  This is what I expected in North Dakota without the hills!  The wheat is being harvested and there were too many trucks on Route 13 but the real danger is the tourists pulling travel trailers.  The tourists don’t know how to handle the trailer and won’t slow down!  There wasn’t much shoulder so I had to watch closely.  I had no incidents but I hope U.S. Route 2 going west has a better shoulder.  My first long stop was in Vida, but there were no rest facilities.  I continued on and had about 3 more ridges to climb and then (halleluiah) it was all downhill to the Missouri River.  The old Wolf Point Bridge is a historic landmark and built in 1930.  Wolf Point is inside the Fort Peck Indian Reservation so the town is full of casinos but otherwise has a hard edge to it.  I was scheduled to camp in the City Park but found a hotel (sound familiar?).  Right next to the motel was the Wolf Point Historical Society Museum.  Inside an old International Harvester Showroom is a wonderful collection from town residents dating back to the 1880s when the town was founded.  I was the only visitor and got a one-on-one guided tour from the Rigsbys, volunteers.  Tomorrow it is on westward to Glasgow, MT and a possible visit to the Fort Peck Dam.  Mileage for the day was 57.61.  Oh, did I mention, the route is back following the Burlington Northern Railroad!   

Day 60, July 19^th, Wibaux, MT to Circle, MT.  It was another early day.  I was up at 5am, still on Central Time, and ready to go.  I was glad I left at 6:10am headed for Glendive, MT.  I stayed on Interstate 94 instead of using the old U.S. 10 and it was mostly downhill to the Yellowstone River Valley.  The temperature was in the 60s to start but it got hot quickly.  The scenery was a mix of prairie and  badlands and very interesting.   As I neared Glendive, there was my old friend the BNSF and several trains.  I rode right beside a load of grain cars heading west.  Glendive is the Montana Division headquarters for the BNSF.  I wasn’t hungry so I bought some food and water, had a bagel and peanut butter, and kept going.  As I headed west on Route 200S, the wind picked up adding to the heat.  It was fairly flat and I made okay time.  I met a series of riders from an Adventure Cycling tour, Northern Tier Supported.  They had light bags and were only going to Glendive.  As I was talking with the ACA riders, a rider came up from the east.  Kyle Gehring is from New York City and riding to Seattle.  We rode together to the next break point at Lindsay, MT.  Kyle has a metallurgy degree from Rutgers but lost his job recently and decided to take the opportunity to ride America.  Kyle rides all day and camps wherever he is when the sun goes down.  After lunch at Lindsay, Kyle headed off and I kept resting.  I only had 25 or so miles to go to Circle.  The rest of the ride was a bear.  The wind was in my face and there was a 15-mile climb across a ridge at 3350 feet (highest point so far) which was about a 700 foot climb from Lindsay.  The climb was not hard but the wind made it tough.  I caught up with Kyle about halfway and we helped each other into Circle.   I planned (AGAIN) to camp, but the campground was horrible and there was an old, but clean motel in town.  I got the last room.  The temperature topped out at 98 today and the air conditioning is welcome.  I had an early dinner with Kyle and he headed north to get more miles.  Mileage for the day was 80.39.  

Day 59, July 18^th, Belfield, ND to Wibaux, MT.  I forgot to mention yesterday that I moved into the Mountain Time Zone.  The western part of North Dakota uses the Mountain Time.  The actual line is the border of ND and Montana.  Needless to say I was up early so I had some coffee and a bagel and headed out.  It was cool and clear after some rain last night and I made good time with little to no wind.  It was back on Interstate 94 after a short stretch but traffic was light.  My first stop was the Painted Canyon Visitor Center (also a rest stop on I94) that was my introduction to the Badlands.  The Center looks over the canyon and gives some info about why the badlands are the badlands.  The area is multiple layers from volcanic activity, time when the area was an inland sea, and time when it was a sub-tropical area somewhat like Florida.  The materials left are prone to erosion and lignite coal (very soft) is present and can catch fire with a lighting strike.  It is very interesting terrain and beautiful.  Next stop was the town of Medora which is also the gateway to a section of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  The National Park was made from the ranch land holdings of Theodore Roosevelt.  Medora is a tourist trap although nicely done.  I had breakfast and waited for a tour of Teddy Roosevelt’s first cabin in the area.  The Visitor Center and cabin tour celebrate Theodore Roosevelt’s work to get the USA to conserve and cherish natural resources.  By the time I headed west, it was getting quite hot.  The forecast was for 98 degrees.  I took Old U.S. 10 and followed the railroad.  The Badlands are very hilly and the wind got stronger and from the SW almost in my face.  This was a grueling stretch.  I was happy to see the little town of Sentinel Butte and had a nice stop at the only place in town.  The proprietor, Rick and I had a good conversation about the area.  I headed out and it was hotter and the wind was still blowing.  I was another hard but short stretch to Beach for another break.  Back on I94, the wind seemed to have lessened, and I made good time into Montana and to Wibaux, Mt.  I visited the Wibaux Museum.  The town is named for Pierre Wibaux, who came from France, started a cattle ranch, and bought up other ranches and at one time had the largest ranch in the world.  The estimate is the W Bar Ranch had 65,000 free range cattle and sold about 10,000 per year.  The campground in Wibaux went out of business, but lucky for me there is a motel in town.  The next town is almost 30 miles and mileage for the day is already at 58.02.       

Day 58, July 17^th, Glen Ullin, ND to Belfield, ND.  I awoke to the sound of rain on my tent this morning.  It was light and quit about 6:15, so I started to pack up.  Before I could get packed the rain came back this time much harder.  I set up near a pavilion and was able to use it to get things out of the rain.  I set out in a light rain heading west.  The route is right next to the Burlington Northern Santa Fe railroad so it was pretty flat.  I had all my lights on in the poor visibility.  I was amazed there were cars without lights lit.  The rain stayed light and I made the 12 miles to my breakfast stop in Hebron.  I had the best link sausage so far this trip at a place called the Chuck Wagon.  After breakfast I kept heading west and kept right next to the railroad (NO Trains boo) but made excellent time with little wind. The farms are called ranches and have an entrance made of wood and many times iron.  It was another atypical North Dakota day without wind from the west.  I saw my first live Ring-Necked Pheasant in probably 45 years.  We used to have them come to our feeder in Carnegie.   I met a couple heading east from Seattle and we discussed and rated lodging options.  I decided to push past Dickinson, ND and go to Belfield.  I got info that I should stop for at least 2-3 hours in Medora which is in the North Dakota part of the Badlands.  I will have more on Medora tomorrow.  I stopped in the Dickinson library to post and charge my phone.  The library building was full of wood paneling and old expensive wall décor.  The money for the library was donated by Andrew Carnegie and the town has done its part to maintain a beautiful building.  After Dickinson, I continued to make good time with a tail wind.  There is only one lodging option in Belfield and the campground was full.  I lucked out because a room at the motel WAS available.  I need to dry out some gear.  The lodging is the Trapper’s Kettle Motel.  They have a “Trapper Hall of Fame” wall in the restaurant.   There are a lot more cowboy hats and a lot of oil workers in the area.  So far old U.S. 10 has been empty.  The mileage for the day was 72.63.  Tomorrow I should make Montana.

Day 57, July 16^th, Bismarck, ND to Glen Ullin, ND.  I was up early with nowhere to go.  I had to wait for the UPS store to open at 8:30 to mail my package of extra stuff.  I got on the road about 9:30 and headed out through Bismarck and its sister town Mandan.  The first 5 miles was on a paved bike trail across the Missouri and through most of Mandan.  It was then pretty much a straight shot on old U.S. 10 (now Route 139) west.  The first part was flat, but after about 10 miles I started to climb away from the Missouri River valley.  The hills were long but not steep and I had a light cross wind out of the North.  This is a different area than the eastern North Dakota prairie.  It is more rocky and steep and there are more beef cattle.  The hills are called “buttes”, and the highest so far is 2,323 feet.  I had lunch in New Salem where Jim and Wanda Birch took a picture of a large cow by the interstate.  After lunch, I had my first taste of riding on Interstate 94 for about 12 miles.  There is a large, wide shoulder and many trucks change lanes as they pass.  It was different but not scary.  I arrived in Glen Ullin, a small town and found the town campground.  There are no showers and a pit toilet, but it is quiet.  An added bonus is the BNSF goes right past the campground.  I was able to enjoy some train watching.  Mileage for the day was 61.68.     

Day 56, July 15^th, Bismarck, ND.  I am taking a rest day in Bismarck.  I slept late and did and did some repacking to re-balance my panniers after boxing up some unneeded stuff.  I had breakfast with an Australian couple (Merv and Sue) from Perth.  I am always amazed at how the Australians travel.  Merv and Sue are traveling with their son, who has lived in Dallas for almost 20 years.  Their plan was to drive north on U.S. Route 83 from Texas to Canada.  Sue does all the research and plans the trip to visit all points of interest and small towns.  They also have a son in London and visited there (and Turkey and Germany) on their way to the USA.  After breakfast, I rode my bike to the First Presbyterian Church but found that today’s service was at a local park and I couldn’t get there in time for 10am service.  I also took a ride along the Missouri River for the view and some local history at the Keel Boat Park.  I had to climb quite a big hill to get up to the State Capitol area.  The temperature today is hovering near 100 degrees so I was glad to get to the Capitol area and some air conditioning.  The North Dakota Capitol building was not what I expected.  It is a 20+ story square building made of concrete and actually not impressive or good looking.  The Heritage Center was good with a very informative set of displays about the history and people of North Dakota.   No mileage recorded today, although I did about 12 miles around town. 

Day 55, July 14, Hazelton, ND to Bismarck, ND.  It was a slow start this morning.  I was not moving well after another hot night in the campground.  I packed up and headed to the a local truck stop to get some coffee and found a breakfast sandwich.  About 8am, I headed toward Bismarck and had another tail wind up Route 83.  I made great time for the first leg to the little town of Moffit.  When I turned west the road got hilly and rough.  I met several cyclists going east and conversed with them.  The route got hilly again on the way in to Bismarck but I kept a good pace.  I have been very lucky to have 3 of 4 days in North Dakota with wind.  I kind of ran out of gas as I neared Bismarck but still made 45 miles in 4 ½ hours.  On the way in I passed a place called Twin Buttes probably formed by the Missouri River eons ago.  The Fairfield Inn is  right on the route, but I got to the motel too early and had to wait for 2 hours for a room.  I went to the UPS store and got a box to ship some gear home.  I have used my stove and cooking gear 3 times.  I also brought a few too many clothes that I haven’t used and I want to get as light as possible for the mountains.  I explored downtown Bismarck and found the old Great Northern station (now a Mexican restaurant) and the Blarney Stone Tavern.  I am taking tomorrow off and sleeping in after 12 straight days of riding.  There is much to see in Bismarck.  I think this was a lot of treaty action and interaction with the Native American tribes.  Sitting Bull was here as well as Gen Custer before his Last Stand.  I may have more after tomorrow’s sightseeing.  Mileage for the day was a “short” 49.67.